HOWEDY ~karen~,
"~Karen~" <jarrett@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:kf6dnSD5LOn68X3VnZ2dnUVZ_tbinZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
to The Sincerely Incredibly Freakin Insanely
Simply Amazing, Majestic Grand Master Puppy, Child,
*****, Birdy, Goat, Ferret, Monkey, SpHOWES, And Horsey
Wizard's 100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY
SUCCESSFUL FREE WWW Wits' End Training Method
Manual Forums And Human And Animal Behavior Forensic
Sciences Research Laboratory.
I'm Jerry Howe, The Sincerely Incredibly Freakin
Insanely Simply Amazing, Majestic Grand Master
Puppy, Child, *****, Birdy, Goat, Ferret, Monkey,
SpHOWES, And Horsey Wizard, Director Of
Trainin an Research <{}'; ~ ) >
I've got forty five years of EXXXPERIENCE raising
and training mostly giant breed working dogs for families
and security specializing in temperament and behavior
problems and protection <{}: ~ ) >
Here's your own FREE COPY of The Sincerely Incredibly
Freakin Insanely Simply Amazing, Majestic Grand Master
Puppy, Child, *****, Birdy, Goat, Ferret, Monkey, SpHOWES,
And Horsey Wizard's 100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY
INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE WWW Wits' End
Training Method Manual:
http://www.freewebs.com/thesimplyamazingpuppywizard/777witsendmanual.htm
The actual INSTRUCTION begins on the third page "*777*
Wits' End Method", abHOWET 1/4 down the page starting
with "Here's ALL the INFORMATION you NEED" and my
phone # and instructions to CALL ANY TIME.
There you will find ALL the FREE information you need
to pupperly handle raise and train your pets and family.
Just follow the instructions PRECISELY and ASK me if
you need any additional FREE HEELP <{}': ~ ) >
You'll likeWIZE find ETHICAL nutrition and heelth
care practices taught on the heelth page *(last link
on the left side) of my website.
> tiny dancer wrote:
>> Any suggestions on shelter for an outdoor cat/kitten?
Other than NOT lettin her dogs MURDER IT, of curse~?
>> It appears a starving cat/kitten has adopted us.
Kats are ALWAYS hungry, as you well know. If tiny dancer
REALLY CARED enough abHOWET the kat she'd LEAVE
IT ALONE so's IT could LEARN HOWE to FEND FOR
HISSELF and her pack of viciHOWES mutts wouldn't
MURDER IT; wouldn't you agree, ~karen~?
<snip>
> I guess I'll just jump in here and add some suggestions.
INDEED?
> I have been lurking for awhile
Yeah. We've had LOTS of PROBLEMS from "lurkers"
poopin in NHOWE an again offerin BAD ADVICE
an then not even havin the integrity to DEFEND their
LHOWESY information; lurkers like your PAL evelyn
ruut, another lyin dog murderin mental case <{}: ~ ( >
> and this is something I know a bit about.
INDEED?
> My husband and I have fostered for a local rescue group for a few years
> and have all types of ages
> and stages in our home.
That's kindly of you, ~karen~ <{}'; ~ ) >
> The first thing we do is make sure we aren't dealing
> with a lactating queen. Cats can go into heat pretty young. It sounds
> like you have already checked that
> out.
You mean on accHOWENTA the kitty is too young?
> If it had been a lactating queen I would suggest contacting a local
rescue
> group and get a partial can of KMR (kitten milk replacement) to give to
> the queen along with her food.
That makes NO sense to me <{}: ~ ( >
HOWE COME would you feed a mom kat KMR?
> Instructions on how dense to mix it would be info the rescue group could
> give you.
That's nice.
> I would weigh the cat. You can weigh yourself, pick up the cat and
weigh
> again. The difference would be
> approximate weight of the cat.
Especially since this kitty is SO small you'd never
be able to tell HOWE much IT weighs <{}: ~ ( >
> Most of us don't have the perfect scale set up to get exact weights but
> this will be close enough.
That so? Ever think of goin to the local post
office an droppin IT on their postage scale?
> Your vet's clinic can use the info to get flea treatment (we use
> Frontline or Advantage)
Those are DEATHLY TOXINS, as you WELL KNOW,
bein a regular LURKER here abHOWETS, ~karen~ <{}: ~ ( >
From: Amy Dahl
Date: Fri, Jul 2 1999 12:00 am
Email: Amy Dahl <a...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
I don't have directly relevant experience, but would like
to suggest the usual--get a second opinion! Especially
before electing surgery.
I once had an experience involving cataracts and a kitten
which woke me up to how block-headed a veterinary specialist
can be (of course, you have to take my word for something the
vet. ophthalmologist did not).
I had adopted two "rescued" kittens that were found at the
age of about 1 day and raised on a foster mother. They had
various health problems, did not thrive, etc. Everything
kind of went together--they were poor, so even with up-to-date
flea treatments couldn't fight off the fleas, so they were
anemic, stayed poor, etc. When it became clear that loving
care, good food, and flea treatments weren't enough I took
them to my vet (who is very good). They were four months
old and about as big as the average 5-6 week kitten.
My vet treated them with several things, of which I remember
Ivomec for ear mites and feline Program (which had just come
out), tested and vaccinated for feline AIDS, which I had
never heard of.
The next morning, the male kitten was blind! The pupils of
his eyes were milky blue--completely clouded by cataracts.
I just happened to have an appointment to CERF a *****, so
I took the kitten along. The vet. ophthalmologist told me,
"he's got congenital cataracts." Well, I know what congenital
means. I had already explained to her that his eyes had been
fine before taking him to the vet the previous day. She
didn't say, you're wrong, you didn't notice. She didn't
acknowledge the discrepancy between my observation and her
statement. She just repeated "they're congenital cataracts.
He's been this way since birth." She informed me about the
surgery and the cost--$1600 per eye at that time.
Twilight Zone theme here. I don't know about the rest of you,
but when face with this level of adamant assertion, I question
what I know. I was sure he'd been able to jump and climb, that
the bumping into things and crying was new that morning. When
I got home I called my vet to verify that the cat had been able
to see the previous day.
Because my vet had a couple of emergencies that day (Friday)
I didn't have the kitten put down. Lo and behold, by Monday
his pupils seemed to respond to light and he wasn't bumping
into things any more! The cloudiness gradually faded away
to nothing (to my unpracticed eye).
Then the next month I treated him with Program again and the
cataracts came back--not as severe, but this time they left
him with permanent cloudiness in one eye. My vet called her
ophthalmology professor from vet school and he mentioned the
possibility of "toxic cataracts," certainly not recorded as
a consequence of Program, but some medical treatments
(antibiotics, I think) cause cataracts in animals which are
in poor health--and sometimes these cataracts resolve.
I take the moral of this story to be that, just because
you are talking to a veterinary specialist, doesn't mean
they necessarily know what they're talking about.
--
Amy Frost Dahl Retriever Trainin phone: (910) 295-6710
Oak Hill Kennel & Handling email: a...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
NC 28370 (http://www.oakhillkennel.com)
> and determine wormer dosage for the cat.
There ARE safe and effective NON TOXIC dewormers,
as you probably DON'T know, ~karen~, bein the shelter /
rescue maven you profess to be <{}: ~ ( >
> An inexpensive flea comb is really helpful in removing
> dead hair as well as quite a few of the fleas. We usually first bathe
the
> cat with an herbal flea soap but that isn't possible in your situation
as
> you can't take the chance of
> dander in your home.
Yet a other EXXXCELLENT reason tiny dancer should LEAVE
IT ALONE, wouldn't you agree, kat rescuer ~karen~ <{}: ~ ( >
> I would check the insides of the ears. If they look real dirty I would
> use a Q-tip and get a healthy sample of the "dirt"
> for the vet to check out under the microscope to determine
> if you need to be treating ear mites as well.
Of curse your veterinary malpracticioner will prescribe
TOXIC pharmacutical treatments instead of EFFECTIVE
natural remedies <{}: ~ ( >
> Most of the cats we have had come through here require treatment for any
> or all of these three parasites - fleas, intestinal worms, ear mites.
An THEN you WONder HOWE COME they become
DEATHLY ILL with CANCERS and other life threatenin
IATROGENIC DIS-EASES which REWARD your toxic
veterinary malpracticioner for his EXXXPERTEASE~!
> Our vet's office is really good about addressing these
> issues without us having to make (and pay for) an actual
> appointment.
Yeah? Kinda like a "lost leader" at Walmart, eh ~karen~?
> You might also ask what weight they require for a
> cat to weigh before they will do a spay or neuter.
Ordinarily a KAT LOVER would NOT recommend leavin
a DOMESTIC kat to FEND FOR HISSELF in a HOWEtside
enviornment.
What kinda kats do you LOVE, ~karen~? Do you leave your
kats to roam the neighborhood an get run DHOWEN on the
street like paul e. schoen's DEAD KATS Photon an Meeshon?
> This seems to vary from vet to vet.
INDEED? You mean not every veterinarian is a malpracticioner
who'll bait you in with FREE EXXXAMS for stray / feral kitty
kats so's he can SCHTUPP IT TO YOU with his toxic malpractices?
Perhaps dr. sandy will advise us abHOWET
the veterinary malpracticioner SCAM?
Then we can just join hands and learn together <{}'; ~ ) >
> A local rescue group will also be able to advise you on
> low cost clinics or if there are "coupons" available.
> (One way to check for local rescues you may not know about is to use
> Petfinder and your zip code.)
INDEED? What a novel idea~!
> Often, the cats/kittens we have cared for have an upper respiratory
> infection. Runny eyes, sneezing, gunky noses are the usual indicators
and
> that requires a vet visit for an
> accurate diagnosis (especially to rule out distemper)and possible
> antibiotics.
Yeah?
> Swollen areas can be abcesses and they
> should be taken care of by the vet as well.
Naaah? IMAGINE THAT??
> In our area the shelters, rescues and foster programs are still
absolutely
> splitting at the seams with the tail end of "kitten
> season". An older kitten or young cat can't compete with the
> absolutely adorable little ones that are up for adoption right now.
So THAT means the older kats will PROBABLY get MURDERED?
> The shelter and local Humane Societies are strapped for cash and
haven't
> the $$ or room to deal with a cat that
> isn't in picture perfect condition.
Perhaps they should focus on BEGGIN instead of RESCUIN?
> If you could care for this cat until it is parasite free, has gained
> weight and grown a healthy coat the chances of it being put up for
> adoption would be greatly improved.
Yeah. If her fear aggressive HOWETA CON-TROLL
dogs don't MURDER IT FIRST, ~karen~ <{}: ~ ( >
> It sounds like the cat is well socialized
Yeah? A feral kat bein SOCIALIZED?
CuriHOWES that, AIN'T IT, karen?
Perhaps IT AIN'T "feral" an tiny dancer is KIDNAPPIN IT??
> and it shouldn't be difficult to maintain that
> socialization while he/she lives on the ****ch.
INDEED?
You know all abHOWET kat allergies, don't you, ~karen~?
If td's darlin daughter IS allergic and subject to "asthma"
attacks, just passin bye the kat's terrortory on the ****ch will
TRIGGER her allergy <{}: ~ ( >
Perhaps td should GET RID of that kat and mind her own business??
> We have neighbors that have two cats that live on and under their front
> ****ch. One is 10 yrs. old and the other
> 5. They get regular vet care, attention from their owners
> daily and a healthy diet.
That's KINDLY of them, ~karen~ <{}: ~ ) >
> They are lovely cats and seem content.
INDEED?
> They can't go into the house because the dogs
> would not be either kind or gentle with them.
Oh, well then, bein a REGULAR LURKER you know
HOWE to apupriately introduce dogs to kats with NO
PROBLEMO.
HOWE COME you don't advise your kindly neighbors?
Here's ALL the INSTRUCTIONS they need:
http://www.freewebs.com/thesimplyamazingpuppywizard/777witsendmanual.htm
> It isn't what we would choose for our cats
INDEED?
Well, I'm HAPPY you ain't wringing each other's hands over it <{}: ~ ( >
> but it sure is a lot better than the life so many other local cats are
> living.
Oh, you mean like janet's an malinda's an shelly's,
kate's an lynn's an professora melanie chang's kats?
"Well, Jack Did Hit My Dog. Actually I'd Call It A Sharp
Tap Of The Crook To The Nose. I Know Jack Wouldn't
Have Done It If He Thought Solo Couldn't Take It. I Still
Crate Him Because Otherwise I Fear He Might Eat My
Cat," Melanie Lee Chang * mch...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Canine Behavioral Genetics Project
University of California, San Francisco
http://psych.ucsf.edu/K9BehavioralGenetics/
Tues,Apr 19 2005 6:54
Subject: Re: Introducing New Dog to Household Cats
sighthounds & siberians <x...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> I was going to ask how cat things were coming with Crow and Eclipse.
Not great! I had been just closing off the upstairs bedroom
(a baby gate with the door fixed ajar about six inches keeps
the dogs out better than you'd expect), but the cats like to
hide in the wall of the linen closet (gotta love these old
houses!) when they're nervous and Crow and Eclipse tore
apart the linen closet to try to get to them. That's when I
closed off the upstairs entirely. They're also a bad
influence on Cinder, who started out thinking of the cats as
dinner but who had learned to live with them in peace until
her sisters arrived. I think it's possible but, frankly,
improbable that they're eventually going to be safe with the
cats.
MALINDA.
----------------
From: sighthounds etc. <greypigho...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:08:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Melinda/Sally
On Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:45:21 GMT, Suja <spana...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>Gwen Watson wrote:
>> The family is giving the dog up because apparently he killed
>> the next door neighbors cat. Out of respect to the next door neighbors
>> these people have chosen to find new home for their malamute. It is
>> really very sad story they have told. For one IMO it is the neighbors
>> fault that their cat got into Miko's yard and was killed.
> I don't get it. How is it the dog's fault that a furry critter that got
> into his yard got killed? If I were in these people's shoes, I would
very
> politely request that the neighbors keep their animals off my property,
> but that's just me.
That's what I would do too. There have been a number of cats killed
here in our yard, by sighthounds or Siberians or a combination of the
above. They are apparently strays (our neighbor two doors down feeds
the stray cats, putting the food in the yard between us, what a good
idea). I don't like it at all, as we love cats and have indoor cats
(which our dogs are fine with), but I can't prevent it and it's not
our fault or our dogs' fault.
>> Though I can also understand the situation in some ways.
>> Pretty rotten deal. I also wasn't aware that Malamute rescue
>> is so full. Seems as bad as GSD and Lab rescue. Pretty sad.
>
> All the rescues are always full, Gwen. The problem with Malamute rescue
> isn't that there is an overwhelming number
> of dogs like there is with Labs and GSDs (271 as opposed to
> the thousands), but there are very few homes that are suitable for them.
> The local Mal rescue person was telling me that their rescue is
basically
> run by 7 or 8 volunteers, and they end up turning down 1/2 to 2/3rds of
> the applicants. They have anywhere between 2 to 12 dogs in rescue at
one
> time. They
> don't do adoption days (where the dogs are displayed in PetsMart or some
> such), because every single person who sees one of these dogs wants to
go
> home with them without realizing what they're getting themselves into.
Same situation with Sibes, but even more people
want those pretty fluffy dogs with blue eyes.
Sally Hennessey
--------------
"After Numerous Training Cl*****, Behavioral
Consultations, And Hundreds Of Dollars In Vet
Bills, I Killed My Dalmatian Several Years Ago
Due To Extreme Dog-Aggressiveness," mustang sally.
"I'll bet you don't know a thing about me.
I volunteered as assistant to the euthanasia
tech at our local shelter for a while, and
I know a bit about overpopulation and unwanted
animals.
This however has nothing at all to do with
responsible breeders, because responsible
breeders don't contribute to that problem,"
Mustang Sally.
From: Cate
Date: Fri, Aug 22 2003 5:26 pm
Email: "Cate" <orson14...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Groups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior
"Melinda Shore" <s...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:bi5sc3$o42$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sure thing. I tend to pick up the best information on what's going on
> from the people down at the local high-end feed shop than I do anywhere
> else.
Exactly. When we first got Orson and were absolutely clueless,
we asked our questions there first. That's how we found obedience
and agility instructors, and I think that's who recommended our vet.
Which is, I suppose,
> another reason to shop at a locally-owned place rather than a national
> chain store that hires apathetic, minimum-wage teenagers.
And the bags of free biscuits they give away with every purchase
doesn't hurt either. Nor does the fact that when their floor bins get
light from dogs grazing, owners don't get charged for it. And when
Orson lifted his leg in there, to my speechless shock and embarassment
(only time he's ever peed inside), they cheerily told me he wasn't the
first,
and he won't be the last.
I miss that place. The closest thing to me is a Pet Valu.
They don't know squat.
Cate
---------------------
Subject: remediating behavioral problems
1From: cate
Date: Tues, Jul 24 2001 12:01 pm
Email: orson14...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(cate)
Groups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
Some of you may remember that I ended up with my brother's
4 year-old cat last week, because my brother is mentally ill and
unable to care for her anymore. I don't know if he ever actively
abused her, but she was certainly at least periodically neglected
and ignored.
She herself has some behavioral issues, likely due to her former
environment. So I have a big dilemma, and I'd like some input.
I admit right off the bat this big, black 14-pound bruiser of a cat
scares the hell out of me. One example of her issues is that she'll
come running to me upon first seeing me, wind around my legs-
-and alternate between meowing and *hissing.* Jasper HISSES
at me constantly! (And don't get me wrong--this cat LOVES me.
Rubs against me, makes bread when I'm near, meows to answer
me when I call her.) Sometimes it's obvious that she's pissed (like
if I touch her belly), but sometimes it's this crazy, mixed-signal thing.
And sometimes it's from clear across the room, out of nowhere,
even if I've been sitting there for 10 minutes without incident. I
don't know what to do about it, because I don't know how to read
a cat who's both happy and angry at once.
Or maybe I'm reading it wrong. Maybe her hissing is part of
her happy-cat repertoire as well as being part of her angry-cat
repertoire. Has anyone ever heard of that?
So obviously, I'm looking for ways to help this cat overcome her
problems. I'm wondering if clicker training might be an option. Has
anyone here ever used clicker training or just plain vanilla positive
reinforcement programs to help a cat overcome behavioral problems?
There are always drugs, but if the problems are as deep-seated
as I suspect, I doubt the efficacy of drugs for this situation. Plus,
I feel drugs would just mask the problem by artificially making
her not care about all the things that scare her/piss her off.
My husband is dead set against keeping her. I would like to keep
her, because I think it's my duty, and because she deserves a good
home.
Furthermore, I seriously doubt Jasper would be considered adoptable
by the general public. I'm not too concerned about that, as I hope it
will work out that we can keep her, but I must consider it at least in
the back of my mind.
I'm sorry this is so long. Thank you if you've read this far. I'm just
looking for some ideas. I've never had a cat that seemed so mixed up,
and I really need some advice.
Cate
14From: Cate
Date: Thurs, Apr 10 2003 11:30 am
Email: "Cate" <orson14...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Groups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior
"jeff" <upsets...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:e0d5bcf9.0304100215.3760b9ce@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Ok, I'm really struggling to find some kind of a solution here. I'm
> sharing my home with a 14 month old German Shepherd and two adult,
> de-clawed cats (all males) and we're having some problems.
I have similar problems. I can't tell you how to train
your animals to not bother each other, or I would've
been able to train my dog not to chase my two cats and
my two cats not to hide from him so much that no training
op****tunities present themselves. But I can give you animal
management tips.
My 4 year-old lab is crated every night in the office
(across from our bedroom) because it's the only time
of day the cats feel comfortable roaming freely (ie.,
at all).
He is not crated during the day because he's reliably
housebroken and he never destroys anything in the house.
If your dog is housebroken, you should try leaving your
dog uncrated during the day to see what happens. If he's
not destroying stuff in the house and he's housebroken,
I'm not sure why he needs to be confined in a crate.
He should definitely not be crated both at night and
during the day. That's way too much time.
So, the cats end up staying on
> the kitchen table, on top of the fridge, or the entertainment center.
> Because they can't get on the ground, I keep their food and water on the
> kitchen table. This is becoming unacceptable.
Find a space off the floor that is acceptable to you.
Even if the dog didn't eat the cat food (and he probably
would), it's not fair to the cats to put their food on
the floor where they must fear being accosted at meal time.
Cats get sick pretty quickly from not eating, so you should do
your best not to put them in a situation where they're afraid
to eat. Try the food and water on top of the fridge--that's what
many people with cats and dogs do.
> I guess another option is to have the food, water, and
> little box somewhere that the cats can get to it, but the dog can't.
> Anyone have an idea as to how to accomplish this trick?
My cat's food and litter is in the basement. When we first
bought our 100 year-old house, we didn't want to cut the
original basement door to put a cat door in it (and it
didn't occur to use to get a cheap replacement door and
cut that), so we put a security-type chain on the door.
When the chain is on, the door opens only wide enough so
the cat can pass through. If I had it to do over again,
I get several of these for the house:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?siteid=1&pCatI...
It's a semicircular cutout that goes in the bottom of a door.
Shaped like the mouseholes on Tom & Jerry and similar cartoons.
You could put one on the door of a closet that contained the
litterbox, and another on the door of a room where only the
cats are allowed. Whatever works for you and lets your cats
have peace while the animals are trying to work out their
differences.
If you must put the litterbox where the dog has access, turn
the box toward the wall and leave only a few inches between
the box and the wall. Cats are agile and will get into the
opening, and the dog will be prevented from snacking on the
cat deposits or bothering the cats while they're inside.
Good luck.
Cate
-----------------------
"You Lying Sack Of Dung.When Have I Ever Said
Anything About Using A Prong Collar, Or Any Collar
Correction At All, To Make Dogs Friendly To House
Cats? Don't bother. The answer is never," lying "I
LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.
lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn writes about kats and dogs:
"This Article Is Something We've Put Together
For SF GSD Rescue
From: Lynn Kosmakos (lkosma...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
)
Subject: Re: I have a dog he has cats
Date: 1999/11/20
ginge...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> How can I get him to quit chasing the cats.
Okay - this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K.
"Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don't
forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works
better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in
this situation.
Electronics can be used to create an aversion to cats, but
should be used under the direction of a trainer who knows how
to instruct the owner in their proper use. Electronics can
take the form of shock, sonic or citronella collars. At that
time the owner will train with electronics instead of food or
whatever other reward system was being used."
8) Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog.
Don't forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong
works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the
dog in this situation. Have the dog in a sit-stay next to
you with most of the slack out of the leash and let the cat
walk through the room and up to the dog if it wishes (this is
why you have the dog muzzled).
If the dog makes an aggressive move towards the
cat, it must be corrected strongly with both your
voice and the collar.
This is im****tant - the correction must be physically
very strong - not a nag. (PS: not many dogs need
to be corrected at all)."
---------------------
"I used to work the Kill Room as a volunteer in
one shelter.) But their ability to set their own
schedules and duties causes a great deal of
scheduling overhead.
And it takes effort and thought to ensure that
volunteers get the meaningful experience that
they work for.
Someone has to be responsible for that
Volunteer Program, and it is best done
by a non-volunteer."
Lynn K.
----------------
"I worked with one shelter where I bathed and groomed
every adoptable dog on intake. I frankly felt that the
effort/benefit equation was not balanced for some of the
older/ill poodle/terrier mixes we got in badly matted condition.
Should I have refused to groom them?
Or even more pertinent - I was one of the people who
had to make the euthanasia decisions at that shelter."
Lynn K.
----------------
"Granted That The Dog Who Fears Retribution
Will Adore His Owner," lying "I LOVE KOEHLER"
lynn.
lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to
it. When he barks, use the line for a correction.-
if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar," Lynn K.
"Training is not confrontation,"Lynn K.
<except when it is>
"Unfortunately, some confrontation is necessary,
just to be able to handle the dogs. For example,
we need to crate train a dog immediately because
they are usually in need of medical care and they
are in foster homes with other dogs. It's a safety
necessity," lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.
"Training is not confrontation,"Lynn K.
<except when it is>
"So what? Whoever said that it's right to
always not confront? We sure can try, but
a dog who knows a command and growls when
given it is certainly being confrontational".
You can't simply walk away and pretend it
didn't happen or leave it for later work in
every situation." Lynn K.
--------------------
Baghdad Bob <Baghdadbob> wrote in message
<news:04591a2c5d469ef78d35c89ed4ed58f7@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>...
Lynn, looks like he got you there if these quotes are true.
In the posts below you take responsibility for making those calls.
In your post above, you state you do not make those calls.
Which one is it?
WORDS OF WISDOM
From Our Own Lynn Kosmakos
1200mg Of Lithium And 50 mg Of Zoloft
EVERY DAY
For Twenty Years
I THINK I'M QUALIFIED TO TALK ABOUT LITHIUM
"I, too, have a bi-polar mood disorder (manic-
depression) requiring 1200mg of lithium and 50
mg of Zoloft every day.
I, also, care about dogs and use this forum to
learn more, while happily sharing pertinent
information I have learned. But if I were ever
to post such sh*t, I would hope that every other
reader of this group would be rightfully outraged."
"Community is an evolutionary thing that we
earn the right to participate in by observing
the easily understood rules and contributing
to in constructive ways."
"It wasn't that meds didn't work for her
- she wouldn't take them. I particularly remember
a comment she made about scarey side effects of
Lithium. Hardly. After 17 years on it, I think
I'm qualified to say that the very low risk of
any side effect is far less frightening than the
very real dangers of life without it."
Lynn K.
------------------------ญญญ-----------
"Loop the lead (it's basically a GIANT nylon or leather
choke collar) over his snarly little head, and give him a
stern correction" --Janet Boss
Here's janet's CUSTOME MADE pronged spiked pinch choke collar:
http://tinyurl.com/5m6ppt
"J1Boss" <j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:20040324071828.07753.00000001@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
He was next to me and I could see his neck
muscles pulsing. He didn't even blink an eye.
Janet Boss
"sionnach" <rhyfe...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:c3qi15$2biuoh$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "J1Boss" <j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:20040323173916.10096.00001938@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > I can't imagine needing anything higher
> > than a 5 with it, even with an insensitive
> > dog like a Lab.
An INSENSITIVE DOG???
> > I can't remember what model of Innotek I have, but
> > I had a pointer ignore a neck-muscle-pulsing 9.
Do you think the citronella collar is CRUEL
cause the SMELL LINGERS after the dog's
been sprayed in the face and the dog won't
know HOWE COME IT was MACED?
janet CONtinues:
> > My dogs are not human children wearing fur- they are DOGS.
> > I don't have anything against electronic bark collars, but they
> > should be used in conjunction with actually working at training
> > your dog(s).
They're DUMB ANIMALS these MENTALLY ILL LYING
DOG ABUSERS HURT INTIMIDATE and MURDER.
-------------------
LIKE THIS:
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
From: j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(J1Boss)
Date: 24 Feb 2004 16:08:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Russian Blue running away - help!
> From: "Gail" g...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> I wonder if a scat mat will help. It is a mat that is
> plugged in and emits a mild shock when the animal steps
> on it. I don't know if people stepping on it will cause
> the mat harm, though.
>
> Below is a link to it. I used them near bookcases when
> one of my cats started urinating there. They were great.
> Gail
A scat mat directly in front of the door, can be stepped
OVER by the humans, but teach the cat to avoid the door area.
I think it's a great solution.
BTW they can run on a 9V battery, so no wires are needed.
They are fixtures on my leather furniture to stop kitties
from peeing there!
Janet Boss
Best Friends Dog Obedience
"Nice Manners for the Family Pet"
Voted "Best of Baltimore 2001" - Baltimore Magazine
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
From: j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(J1Boss)
Date: 03 Nov 2003 19:25:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Keeping cat out of room.
>From: "Iso" nos...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>The mats, regardless of what you think WORK and are HARMLESS.
Just another opinion that Scat Mats are pretty useful tools.
Rather than have my youngest cat continue to ruin my
leather furniture, we have Scat Mats on the sofa and
chair.
When they are off, and we're sitting on that furniture,
Skip is allowed on and in our laps, etc. When the mats
are on, I can be happy with the fact that he's not
urinating on the leather!
The static charge isn't much at all - it's a deterrent,
and a good one.
Janet Boss
Best Friends Dog Obedience
"Nice Manners for the Family Pet"
Voted "Best of Baltimore 2001" - Baltimore Magazine
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
From: j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(J1Boss)
Date: 04 Jun 2003 12:10:19 GMT
Subject: a few frustrations - a little long.
Mostly venting, but any thoughts are welcome!
#1 - Skipjack. 1.5 y.o. neutered male blue tabby.
Incredibly sweet and affectionate, sleeps against me
all night, on my lap every moment he can be. Eats well
(Solid Gold dry, various brands of canned - small amounts -
not much interest), uses his litter box, only scratches
his tree and a few mats that have been approved, and is
a very nice cat. Let's anyone carry him around forever
and is very social. Gets along well with 2 dogs and
another cat. But................
He also urinates on other things. Sofas (where we sit) -
frequency of maybe every few months. Wires. Phone or
speaker wires (thin), that are at floor level. Scrapes
around at them and urinates on them on hard surface flooring.
Maybe once every few weeks. Dog beds and dog's sofa
(I have baby mattress pads on these, under the covers
in order to just have to do wash!) - once every few
weeks. Guest bed - used or freshly washed sheets.
Full laundry basket - random, if available, not often.
Anything that can go in the wash has gotten soaked and
washed in hot water, Oxyclean added. Anything not machine
washable gets a thorough cleaning with Simple Solution Cat
Urine Cleaner (which I found seems to work better than Nature's
Miracle for this).
Feliway has been used to varying success.
Most recently, he urinated on a sofa cu****on within a
few hours of spraying it with Feliway.
I have 2 cats, 2 litterboxes. One crystals, which he prefers,
one scoopable, which my other cat prefers. Both are kept
incredibly clean. No problem using the box, even when workmen
were in the room - I see him use it regularly and tell him what
a good kitty he is for doing so.
A little history - when he came home at 5 months old last
February (2002), he had a bad case of the squirts and managed
to fly around with liquid poop being released all over my sofas.
We cleared that up, washed everything thoroughly (sofas have
2 sets of machine washable slipcovers, and the leather sofa
he christened has a scat mat on it now), and thought we had
conquered any problems.
He is quite the perfect cat except for this issue and it's
very random as to where and when he decides to urinate.
I'm not happy with the situation of course, and can't quite
figure out what's going on. He doesn't have a UTI and has
normal elimination patterns as far as frequency.
He does not do this in my bedroom, the other guest bedroom,
the kitchen or dining room.
If you've read this far, I have another cat and problem! ;-D
#2 Carey. Almost 10 y.o. spayed tortie. Neurological problems
(probabl brain tumor, other things ruled out). Has been on Pred
and Valium for a bit over a year, and has dropped from a bit over
9# to less than 7# (all thyroid tests came back normal).
She's a happy and sweet cat who bugs me for her pills every
morning. She has a problem with raised (even happy) voices
where she attacks the dogs. I've talked about that here before.
The dogs are saints and have never reacted adversely to her
doing this. I can pick her up during these episodes and she
doesn't attack me, but is hell bent on trying to attack the
dogs. There have been times where the dogs noises have
triggered this. She gets along well with the younger cat.
She adores the dogs otherwise, and that's really the problem
more than the attacking (we've all kind of learned to live
with that!).
She obsesses over them.
When she was a kitten, she nursed on my Golden Retriever
so much that she needed surgery for hair blockage. She
ceased the behavior until she was 5.5 and when another
dog died, then she resumed.
She transferred that to another dog after the Golden died
1.5 years later, and now it's just increased to a difficult
level.
She does this to both of my dogs, mostly at nighttime or
whenever they are napping in my bedroom. She will do it
to the one dog in other locations as well. During the day,
it's not so bad.
The dogs look confused but tolerate it, even though she's
latched onto them with her mouth and rear claws. She
attaches herself to various parts of their bodies.
Nighttime is the problem - we're not getting any sleep!
Skipjack sleeps on the bed, the dogs sleep on their dog
beds or her favorite dog sleeps under the bed.
She will not leave her alone!
Poor Lucy gets up and leaves the room, only for Carey
to follow her, and she winds up pacing around, which
keeps us awake. She just isn't deterred. She can be
lifted off, tossed off, grumbled at, but she will not
leave the dogs alone until she's good and ready.
The only rooms that can be closed off are either across
the hall or under our room. She's a very vocal cat and
will meow like crazy if confined away from everyone else,
so that won't help sleep.
Any thoughts of novel things to try with either of these
kitties? I adore them but their habits are driving me
up the wall at times!
Janet Boss
Best Friends Dog Obedience
"Nice Manners for the Family Pet"
Voted "Best of Baltimore 2001" - Baltimore Magazine
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
From: Janet B <j...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 14:18:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Electric shock pad
On 8 Aug 2005 11:03:01 -0700, "mystro"
<highpur...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>, clicked
their heels and said:
>I'm trying to find a link or resource for purchasing training shock
>pad,a pad that gives a slight shock using flashlight batteries and
>perfectly harmless and from what little I've read..quite effective.
>Help :)
it's called a Scat Mat. Google that and you'll find several sources.
--
Janet B
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.co m
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/
bestfriendsobedience/album
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
From: j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(J1Boss)
Date: 03 Nov 2003 19:25:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Keeping cat out of room.
>From: "Iso" nos...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>The mats, regardless of what you think WORK and are HARMLESS.
Just another opinion that Scat Mats are pretty useful tools.
Rather than have my youngest cat continue to ruin my
leather furniture, we have Scat Mats on the sofa and
chair.
When they are off, and we're sitting on that furniture,
Skip is allowed on and in our laps, etc. When the mats
are on, I can be happy with the fact that he's not
urinating on the leather!
The static charge isn't much at all - it's a deterrent,
and a good one.
Janet Boss
Best Friends Dog Obedience
"Nice Manners for the Family Pet"
Voted "Best of Baltimore 2001" - Baltimore Magazine
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
From: j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(J1Boss)
Date: 04 Nov 2003 21:35:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Declawing: glad I took the time
Kaeli wrote:
> Some of us feel that declawing a cat is tantamount to torture.
> You don't torture something you profess to love. Period. You
> don't even take the chance that it might be tortured. Period.
I fully understand that (and the analogy of other groups
who feel strongly about issue "x"). I think there is a
very, very large group of people who choose or think about
declawing, do so not because they want to take a chance
that the animal they love may be tortured, but because
of a variety of experiences/advice that says it's an ok
thing to do (not torture in general - declawing!).
Take the neighbor's attitude ("just" a cat? NO cat is
"just" anything! ;-D). One shared by many, to some degree.
Lot's of priorities. Interesting thread on RPDB recently
about people willing to die/put themselves in the line of
fire for their dogs.
It was interesting to read the range of thoughts on such
a thing. Obviously, people give different weight to
different beings and things.
While I am their caregiver and friend, I don't put
pets in the same category as humans.
I declawed my first cat, because my experiences said that
is what you did with an indoor cat (had lived with many
cats owned by others). She used her claws inappropriately
as a kitten, and my meager attempts at clawing devices
didn't work, so I thought nothing of it.
Since she exhibited no obvious ill effects, my experience
(and hers as far as anyone could tell) was a positive one.
Knowing more of what it entailed, I chose not to declaw my
next cat (owned in tandem with cat #1 and then cat #3).
He was an adult acquisition and I knew such a thing would
be more difficult for him, but also, he was very trainable
and I didn't even consider it.
Cat #3 was a claw maniac, and due to my experiences with
Cat #1, I went ahead with a declaw. Once again, I have
never seen any backlashes due to the operation, and I
would put up with anything if I'm lucky enough to have
her for many more years, which isn't all that likely.
She's doing well on meds currently, and maintaining,
if not gaining any weight.
Once I was ready for cat #4, I knew that I wouldn't choose
this route again. Not because of gory pictures, not because
of scare tactics about what my declawed cat would become,
but because I realized that more tools could make the
difference and it wasn't something that I really wanted
to do.
I didn't want to cause a kitten pain (even though others
didn't seem to experience any!), nor any physical or
emotional problems. So, I have a fully clawed cat who
pees on things - oh well! ;-D He's a wonderful cat in
every other way!
> If you love your furniture more than your cat's right
> to not be mutilated, you are going to draw some venom
> in a cat newsgroup.
Again, why is it either/or?
Can't someone value their belongings and their cat too?
I choose to protect my furniture with Sticky Paws (I forgot
they were there - probably time to take them off - it's been
almost 2 years with no interest!) and with Scat Mats (not
from claws but from urine).
Some folks posting here think that's a horrible thing to do.
People who have obviously never felt a Scat Mat! But balloons,
snappy trainers, etc are recommended. A lot of contradictory
thoughts here, so I can't say that it's all rational.
Passion rarely is though - and I actually appreciate
that for the most part!
It's obvious that each one of us has our own limits.
Janet Boss
Best Friends Dog Obedience
"Nice Manners for the Family Pet"
Voted "Best of Baltimore 2001" - Baltimore Magazine
gn.net/kae lisSpace
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats.health+behav
From: j1b...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(J1Boss)
Date: 23 Jan 2004 21:21:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Protecting leather furniture
> But would a scat mat keep a cat from clawing
> the side of the couch?
>--
>~kaeli~
no - it's only good for the pee problem!
Never showed any interest in clawing, and
"launch" marks disappeared easily, as good
leather "heals" itself.
Janet Boss
Best Friends Dog Obedience
"Nice Manners for the Family Pet"
Voted "Best of Baltimore 2001" - Baltimore Magazine
=================
BWEEEAAAHAAAHAAA~!~!~!
|
