HOWEDY tommy sorenson aka not so handsome,
not so happy, not so gentle, not so manly, jackass,
not even jack morrison aka joey finnochiarrio aka
howie lip****z aka BIG DADDY aka DOGMAN,
a.k.a. *****MAN, you pathetic miserable stinkin
rotten lyin anonymHOWES malignant maliciHOWES
dog child an spHOWES abusing punk thug coward
active acute chronic life long incurable mental case and
paranoid homophobe, misogynist, puppy miller and shock
collar salesman,
"Handsome Jack Morrison" <handsomejackmorrison@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:1760e45o9ubjvai4dc1b28m0rlj054dtlq@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 19:47:14 -0400, "tiny dancer"
> <tinydancer357@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>>> Maybe you can find a place to put the cat shelter where
>>> the dogs can't get to (and maybe not even see) it?
You mean INSTEAD of just TRAININ the dogs to LIKE kats
NEARLY INSTANTLY simply by DOIN EVERY THING
EXXXACTLY PRECISELY OPPOSITE of HOWE you pathetic
miserable stinkin rotten lyin animal murderin punk thug coward
active acute chronic life-long incurable malignant maliciHOWES
MENTAL CASES PREFER?
>>Oh if it's staying, they are going to knock this **** off.
OtherWIZE they'll MURDER the kat.
>> What would you think if I had my husband help me,
>> one dog at a time, *introducing* them to the cat? Let
>> them sniff the cat, etc? With their choke chains or prong
>> collars on, I mean.
Jerkin an chokin your fearful dogs on choke chains and
pronged spiked pinch choke collars or shockin them will
INCREASE their FEAR of the kat an will probably CAUSE
them to MURDER IT <{}: ~ ( >
>> Or might the cat scratch me if I'm holding it
>> and dh is holding the dog back?
Yeah, we wouldn't wanna see tiny dancer get HURT <{}: ~ ) >
> Frankly, I don't think you'd ever be able to trust them.
INDEED? HOWE COME you don't think your KOEHLER
trainin won't work for dog an kat fear aggression, tommy?
> You'd feel horrible if something were to happen, right?
INDEEDY~!
THAT'S HOWE COME tiny dancer should OBEDIENCE
TRAIN her dogs to LIKE her new kitty kat an NOT MURDER
IT.
> Anyway, that's my opinion.
Well HOWE COME you've CHANGED your OPINION, tommy?:
"My objective is always to find a way that WORKS.
And if it is DANGEROUS behavior that I'm trying
to modify, behavior than can get the dog KILLED,
I will resort to ANYTHING to save him.
A-N-Y-T-H-I-N-G.
Okay. Call me a cruel, inhumane, abusive bastard
if you want to, but it doesn't affect me at all.
When you've saved the lives of as many dogs as I
have, you'll learn that that's the only thing that
really matters. Saving lives and making dogs become
good citizens
At no time do the Monks *ever* advocate beating a
dog. A swat on the rump or a check to the chin does
*not* constitute a "beating."
=====================
Let's talk abHOWET your trainin methods, tommy?
tommy wrote:
From: dog...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(Dogman) Date: 1997/11/11
Subject: Re: Koehler's Usefulness--A Concluding *****sment
This, from a yellow-bellied coward who has TOTALLY refused
to engage me in debate, preferring mudslinging, hyperbole, distortion,
lies, exaggeration, and to take Koehler completely out of context,
instead.
What lying hypocrites these hand-wringers are!
The most consistent argument among Koehler's defenders is based
on a questionable assumption that such "drastic" measures are
effective in "extreme" cases where other methods fail.
------------------------
BWEEEAAAHAAAHAAA~!~!~!
HOWE COME would a EXXXPERT such as tommy set their
INFORMATIVE posts to EXXXPIRE in six days like matty
a.k.a. Rocky, diddler, elegy, meat terri a.k.a. dogsnuts, professora
melanie chang, marquis de "READ KOEHLER FOR CONTENT"
shaw and not so handsome not so gentle jackass, not even jack
morrison a.k.a. joe finnochiarrio a.k.a. BIG DADDY a.k.a.
DOGMAN??
Ooops~! That last anonymHOWES coward is tommy.
Is tommy EMBARRASSED by his own words, the lyin animal
murderin punk thug coward mental case fraud an SCAM ARTIST?
matty aka Rocky EXXXPLAINS HOWE COME:
"Rocky" <2d...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote
For reasons I'll only explain privately, I've gone no
archive, and it's a shame. Once in a while, while
looking for something else, I'll run into an old post
of mine.
What an idiotic response!
Whoops.
-------------------
BWEEEAAAHAAAHAAA~!~!~!
> YMMV.
You mean dog trainin AIN'T a SCIENCE, tommy?
"The Koehler Method of Dog Training"
Howell Book House, 1996"
Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider.
"If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by
the mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.)
In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog,
as well as the house, if you really pour it on him."
"Housebreaking Problems:
"The Koehler Method of Dog Training"
Howell Book House, 1996"
Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the op****tunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid
correction.
When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.
It is im****tant to your future relation****p that you
do not rush at him and start swinging before you get
hold of him.
When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much puni****ng.
Be consistent in your handling.
To have a pup almost house-broken and then force
him to commit an error by not providing an op****tunity
to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will
make your job easier.
The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.
For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.
The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves
you no other course than to punish him sufficiently
to convince him that the satisfaction of his
wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the
punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house.
An indelible impression can sometimes be made
by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration,
then leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you
can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish
him again for the same thing.
In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this
disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment.
It will be better for your dog, as well as the house,
if you really pour it on him.
---------------------
AIN'T GOT NO AGENDAS HERE, SEE??
Here's tommy TRAININ dogs again:
tommy wrote:
"I don't know how big you are, kiddo, so this may
not be as easy for you as it is for me, but use
a little "knee action," that is, as the dog goes
charging by you, just give the dog a little bop
with your knee and ****n. Yep, really lean into it.
Even knock her over, if you can, but make sure to
make her think twice about ru****ng past you again -
- which is exactly what you want her to do.
Don't bother with scolding her, she'll get the message.
If it happens again, just REPEAT the knee action.
When she steps on your toes, just pick up your foot
abruptly and ****ge her with your knee. Again, no
scolding is necessary here, so you don't have to
worry about her "over-reacting."
I don't think this is necessarily a lack of respect
for you, just a lack of training. That is, she just
needs *more* of it."
tommy *(who AIN'T tommy sorensen) sez:
"IMO, the *fastest* way to curb a mouthy puppy's
desire to bite hands (especially if other methods
have failed, because you don't want this habit to
become reinforced by too much success), etc., is
to take advantage of the pup's gag reflex:
Slowly reach over and around the pup's shoulder
(while you're sitting on the floor), coming up to
the pup's mouth from underneath it with your
right hand (that way he can't see your finger or
your hand), and stick your index finger into the
pup's mouth, at the very rear, then down the
pup's throat, and gently place some downward
pressure on the back of the tongue, until he starts
to gag. Use your left arm to hold him close to you,
while you're doing this.
Trust me, it's easier to demonstrate this technique
than to explain it, but it's fail-proof.
He'll quickly put 2 and 2 together. Biting hands = gag.
--
Handsome Jack Morrison
-------------------
From: dog...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(Dogman)
Date: 1999/01/15
Subject: Re: Another mouthy lab
Get this book:
"The Art of Raising A Puppy," by the Monks of New Skete
If you can't find it locally, you can obtain it
through my Web site (see below).
You'll need it for more than just the usual puppy
"mouthing" problems, anyway.
And good luck with your Lab puppy!
--
Dogman
------------------------
From: osi...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(Michael Erskine)
Date: 12 Aug 2004 10:09:05 -0700
Subject: My GSD bit me.
The question:
I have a four year old male GSD. He growls
at me sometimes. When he growls at me he
stares me in the face and lays his ears back.
The New Skete books say that the dog should not be
allowed to do that. They suggest shaking down the
dog by grabing the dog on the sides of his neck and
picking him off his front feet, then giving the dog the
same sort of treatment the dog would give another if
it were challenging him.
Namely getting in the dogs face and letting
the dog know you are the alpha dog.
Well, my dog bit me clearly he felt that I was not
convincing enough or he bit me out of fear.
Anyone got ideas on what to do with this dog that might
help him to decide that he wants to follow and that he
has nothing to fear from me?
----------------------
From: Charlie Wilkes <charlie_wil...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 17:21:14 GMT
Subject: Re: My GSD bit me.
You need to improve your acting skills. Get a werewolf
suit with blood-drenched fangs and claw gloves and THEN
go after your dog.
Knock the **** out of him and don't be afraid to crack
some ribs. Then yank the mask off and shout "SURPRISE!
IT'S ME!" I guarantee you and your dog will have a new
relation****p based on mutual respect.
Keep in mind that the monks of New Skete
were pre-Lon-Chaney.
Charlie
-----------------------
BWEEEAAAHAAAHAAA~!~!~!
Here's lyin DOGDUMMY BEATIN a dog to HOWEsbreak IT:
<handsomemorri...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:spb3ivgh7prvq9omhka0bcif0tfknv6oop@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 17:52:18 -0400, "Krishur"
kris_br...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Good books huh?
Absolutely. Some are, in fact, classics.
> Which idea was your favorite, the one where they
> tell you to alpha roll a "dominant" dog,
There's nothing inherently wrong with rolling a dog
(i.e., it *can* and *does* work in *some* situations).
Unfortunately, most people either do it incorrectly, do
it at the wrong time, etc.
> or where they tell you that you didn't hit him hard
> enough if he doesn't yelp or approaches you within
> 5 minutes of his punishment?
If physical discipline is deemed necessary (after careful
evaluation), it's much more cruel not to get it over with
quickly than it is to do it incrementally and half-
heartedly, which usually only invites the need for even
more discipline.
> Maybe you liked when they recommend these
> beatings for housebreaking accidents, chewing /
> destructive behavior, stealing, trying to get on
> your bed at night and dog on dog aggression.
At no time do the Monks *ever* advocate beating
a dog. A swat on the rump or a check to the chin
does *not* constitute a "beating."
I'm sorry if you don't agree.
And each of those behavior "problems" needs
to be looked at in its proper context.
A quote from the Monks:
"We repeat, these situations may merit physical
discipline. Since no book can pretend to analyze
every individual dog and situation, we feel obligated
to emphasize from the outset that discipline is never
an arbitrary training technique to be applied to each
and every dog for all offenses. We do, however, believe
that physical and verbal discipline can be an effective
technique.
The best policy if you experience any of the above
problems is to consult a qualified trainer or veterinarian
or evaluation of your individual situation....
"If discipline is decided upon as a training technique,
it should be the proper technique. We feel we have
developed several methods that depend less on violent
physical force than timing, a flair for drama, and the
element of surprise.
We feel an obligation, as responsible trainers, to map
out these methods, rather than simply skip the topic
because it is unpleasant. Dog owners want to know
what to do."
In other words, physical discipline is reserved for those
serious, special occasions when other methods have failed.
For example, they do not recommend using physical
discipline for *routine* housebreaking chores -- only
on those rare occasions when an already reliably
housebroken dog is (after careful evaluation) deemed
to be soiling the house on purpose, backsliding, etc.
I'll give you an actual example. Years ago, an adult dog
was brought to me as an *incurable* house-soiler. It
was either get the dog reliably housetrained or the dog
was going on a one way trip to the pound.
Being the kind, compassionate trainer that I am, I
was prepared to do whatever it took to get this dog
house-trained and save his life.
After several weeks of more or less traditional training,
and to poor result, I brought out the big guns -- physical
and verbal discipline. Whenever the dog soiled the house
(no, you don't even have to catch him in the act), I
immediately (but very calmly) tossed a leash on his collar,
dragged him to the scene of the crime, and (using a large
chair as a prop) tethered him to the leg of the chair, with
his nose about two inches away from the poop. After a
couple of swats on the rump, some loud vocalizing, and a
wait of about 20 minutes, I'd release the dog and then
ignore him for a while. I had to repeat this process *three*
times, I think -- and the house-soiling miraculously
stopped. The dog went home to enjoy a long and contented
life with his original owners, and I got to feel good about
myself.
So, yes, the Monk's books are good ones. Even for novices.
Yup, that's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it.
-- Handsome Jack Morrison *gently remove
the detonator to reply via e-mail
BWEEEAAAAHAAAAHAAAA~!~!~!
"Handsome Jack Morrison"
<handsomemorri...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrote in message
news:a236iv0ngp58gv9jmi818kbmk928rjcokq@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On 26 Jul 2003 22:14:29 GMT, dogstar...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>(DogStar716) wrote:
> >>> Never mind dogman :)
> >> You too? Some folks just never learn.
>
>>>> Uh huh :)
>
>>> One of the signs of mental illness
>>> is to say "Uh huh" a lot.
>
>> PS: If the "trainer" you were talking about isn't on this
>> list, he (or she) is NOT an approved Koehler trainer, no
>> matter how loud you scream otherwise.
>
> May I laugh again? LOL! One doesn't need to be
> on a list to use Koehlers methods or teach his methods.
> Let me be among the first (apparently) to tell you that
> not every trainer who uses a leash is a *Koehler* trainer.
> Sheesh.
>
> This person may call herself a Koehler trainer, but
> if she's hanging 12 week old puppies, she's about
> as far from a Koehler trainer as a dog trainer can
> possibly be.
>
> Again, this is just your IGNORANCE showing.
> I can call myself a devout Christian, but if I'm not
> adhering to the doctrine, I'm something else.
> >http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com/patoflearn.html
> Sorry, the very first sentences make me aware
> that whoever wrote it knows nothing about PR
> based training:
> "Amidst the current (and politically correct) trend
> in Positive Reinforcement Only training systems"
> You cannot use PR only.
Au contraire. Many, many posters to r.p.d.b. (and many
other places as well) *claim* that they use nothing but R.
You know, the PPers.
And they do it quite loudly, too.
Surely you aren't blind (and deaf), as well as ignorant?
Those are hard handicaps to overcome, Dogstar.
And if you knew anything about PR BASED training,
you would realize that. It's not all cookies and babytalk.
There is no stronger sup****ter of R than Handsome
Jack Morrison, but I also use every behavioral tool
in my bag, including R-, P, and P-, because I know
that even R has its limits.
You'd know that too, if you didn't
have your head in the sand.
> But that seems to be the battle cry of the Koehler-ites.
The Koehlerites have no battle cry.
They have behaviorism on their side, and
that's more than enough.
> I don't need instruction on how to give my dogs
> a proper leash correction as I do not rely on a
> leash to control or teach my dog.
That may or may not be suitable for your needs,
but it's not suitable for the majority of dog owners,
especially since the advent of leash laws.
Besides, after just a few weeks of proper Koehler
training, Koehler dogs likewise are no longer in
need of a leash.
*(THAT'S HOWE COME tommy
SELLS SHOCK COLLARS)
That you apparently don't know that, once again
shows me just how ignorant of anything to do with
Koehler you are.
My last two dogs have been trained offleash right
from the start, using rewards for what I like, and
nothing for what I don't like.
Good for you, and if that level of training is good enough
for you, fine. But it's not good enough for many of the
rest of us.
> Again, I'm not saying Koehler doesn't work.
I really have no idea what you're saying anymore, because
you apparently know so damn little about Koehler and
behavioral principles in general that it's hard to have an
informed discussion with you.
PS: It boggles my mind at how stupid you must be to
keep denying that those certain harsh methods are only
for LAST RESORT situations, intended only to SAVE
A DOG'S LIFE, even after I've repeatedly given you
direct *quotes* from Koehler's book saying just that.
It's like you don't even care how stupid people think
you are, or how devious you are, etc. That can't help
your cause any.
You'd think that you'd at least want to
*appear* to be honest, even if you're not. -
- Handsome Jack Morrison *gently remove the detonator
to reply via e-mail
--------------
Howell Book House," 1996 William Koehler
BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING,
YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING
The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain
you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were
against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet
them, so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in
his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more
emphatic.
We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one
that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at
familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from
a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of
temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his
mouth.
But you won't make the permanent impression unless you
supply dozens of op****tunities for him to exercise the control he
thus acquires. Make sure these op****tunities don't always come at
the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.
With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs
with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As
was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not
lessen the dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more
discriminating, increase it.
The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because
you're gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical
for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater
to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have to heed
the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little
ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.
Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective effort
doesn't turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a
stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will
also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog
drags it around when you're not present. Next, equip yourself with a
man's leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular
dog a good tanning.
Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard. Remember,
you're dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and
neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does.
Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going.
When you've walked to a point where he'll think you're gone but
where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If
you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby ****ch, be careful
not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog's hearing to be many times as
sharp as yours.
When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so
you can barge in while he's still barking, which is generally
impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of
"out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area.
Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you've
conveniently placed, and descend on him. He'll have no chance to
dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are
raised off the floor or, if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him
up with a hitch on something. While he's held in close, lay the
strap vigorously against his thighs.
Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter end. A real
whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat
performances that will be necessary.
When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on
a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After
fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the
area again.
So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great
percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end
up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I've
always felt that it's even better to spank children, even if they
"cry out," than to "put them to sleep."
You might have a long wait on that comfortable ****ch before your
dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range
bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat
the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.
It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that
you'll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a
full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he
gets away with his concert part of the time, he'll be apt to gamble
on your inconsistency.
After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will
be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him
without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just
a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like gambling.
Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you're hiding
nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you
have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe
his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be
watching and listening for the signs of your actual going.
Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing
clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the
family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a
block or two from your house so you can come back and park within
earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you've
returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool
the most alert dog.
Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the
house or requires the production of changing clothes and driving
off, keep working until even your neighbors admit the dog has
reformed. If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when
you're not around, so give the above method an honest try before
you presume your dog requires a more severe correction.
"The Koehler Method of Dog Training (1962).
New York: Howell Book Book House(p. 52-53)."
Hanging
"First, the trainer makes certain that the collar and leash are more
than adequate for any jerk or strain that the dog's most frantic
actions could cause. Then he starts to work the dog deliberately and
fairly to the point where the dog makes his grab. Before the teeth
have reached their target, the dog, weight permitting, is jerked from
the ground. As in coping with some of the afore-mentioned problems
the dog is suspended in mid-air.
However, to let the biting dog recover his footing while he still had
the strength to renew the attack would be cruelty. The only justifiable
course is to hold him suspended until he has neither the strength nor
inclination to renew the fight. When finally it is obvious that he is
physically incapable of expressing his resentment and is lowered to
the ground, he will probably stagger loop-legged for a few steps,
vomit once or twice, and roll over on his side. The sight of a dog
lying, thick-tongued, on his side, is not pleasant, but do not let it
alarm you
THE REAL "HOOD"
"If your dog is a real "hood" who would regard the foregoing types
of protest as "kid stuff" and would express his resentment of your
efforts by biting, your problem is difficult -- and pressing.
"Professional trainers often get these extreme problems. Nearly
always the "protest biter" is the handiwork of a person who, by
avoiding situations that the dog might resent, has nurtured the seeds
of rebellion and then cultivated the resultant growth with under
correction.
When these people reap their inevitable and oftentimes
painful harvest, they are ready to avail themselves of "the cruel
trainer" whose advice they may have once rejected because it was
incompatible with the sugary droolings of mealy-mouthed columnists,
breed-ring biddies, and dog psychologists who, by the broken skins
and broken hearts their misinformation causes, can be proven guilty of
the greatest act of cruelty to animals since the dawn of time.
"With more genuine compassion for the biting dog than would ever be
demonstrated by those who are "too kind" to make a correction and
certainly with more disregard for his safety, the professional trainer
morally feels obligated to perform a "major operation."
"Since we are presently concerned with the dog that bites in
resentment of the demands of training, we will set our example in that
situation. (In a later chapter we will deal with the with the much
easier problem of the dog that bites someone other than his master."
------------------------
"The day may come when the rest of the animal creation
may acquire those rights
which never could have been withholden from them
but by the hand of tyranny.
The question is not can they REASON,
nor can they TALK,
but can they SUFFER?" -
- Jeremy Bentham
"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised
for the good of its victims,
may be the most oppressive.
Those who torment us for our own good
will torment us without end,
for they do so with the approval of
their own conscience." -
- C.S. Lewis.
"Death is better, a milder fate than tyranny",
Aeschylus (525BC-456BC),
Agamemnon.
"If you talk with the animals, they will talk with you
and you will know each other.
If you do not talk to them, you will not know them,
and what you do not know you will fear.
What one fears, one destroys."
Chief Dan George
All truth p***** through three stages.
First, it is ridiculed.
Second, it is violently opposed.
Third, it is accepted as being self-evident.
-Arthur Schopenhauer
"Thank you for fighting the fine fight--
even tho it's a hopeless task,
in this system of things.
As long as man is ruling man,
there will be animals (and humans!)
abused and neglected. :-(
Your student," Juanita.
"If you've got them by the balls
their hearts and minds
will follow,"
John Wayne.
ANY QUESTIONS, People?
"Ye shall know the truth,
and the truth shall make you mad." -
~Aldous Huxley.
"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
"Against stupidity the Gods themselves contend in vain!"
-Friedrich Schiller.
INDEEDY.
AND THAT'S HOWE COME THEY GOT ME NHOWE!
In Love And Light,
I Remain Respectfully, Humbly Yours,
The WORLD'S CRUELEST Trainer,
Jerry Howe,
The Sincerely Incredibly Freakin Insanely Simply
A-M-A-Z-I-N-G
*M-A-J-E-S-T-I-C*
*G-R-A-N-D*
*M-A-S-T-E-R*
Puppy, Child, *****, Birdy, Ferret, Goat, Monkey
SpHOWES And Horsey Wizard <{) ;~ ) >
HOWE MAY I SERVE YOU <{}; ~ ) >
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